Geikie Gorge day trip

July 3rd started early with checking emails. Once everyone else was awake we checked out what food we needed, planned our shopping day and took-off to town from the Crossing Inn. 1st stop was the local camping store for gas for Uwe stove and boxes for Steve to pack his bike. Yep Steve had told us last night he was returning to Broome/Perth on account of his knee not getting any better in the 5 days he was waiting in Fitzroy Crossing for us. Gas was not to be found in Fitzroy, anywhere! 3 shops latter it was decided we needed to take Steve's fuel stove with us.

Shopping at the best of times is confusing, but having been on the road away from shops for a few days, one is a bit like a rabbit in bright lights when you see all the things you can buy.. Taking a shopping list helps, but we still managed to buy things not on the list.

We managed to find some bubble wrap for Steve who was busy building a bike box for his trailer and bike out of packing tape and small boxes. Uwe, Briget & I road out to Geikie Gorge for a picnic lunch and boat tour. Its interesting in these part of the country our time of day can make a ride wonderful or hard work. the ride out was hard work, it felt way longer than the 21kms from town, uphill (imagined), into a headwind and on a rough sealed road. I was very happy to make the river. We relaxed, drank cups of tea, enjoyed lunch, went for a short walk and waited 2 hours for the boat tour.

Now the tour was wonderful. You walk down to a small boat that carries around 30 folk with a guild and under power moter out on to the river, spotting 'freshies', learning about the plants and the history of the gorge. The boat trip starts at around 3pm in the arvo, the afternoon light falls onto the colourful sandstone gorge walls, highlighting their features of curves, crags, caves and wildlife. Motionless croc's dot the sandy banks or rocks in the river. They look battery operated - plastic in fact. then they move, mostly just opening their jaws... Its about now that you think getting too close is not a great idea.

the boat lazily makes its way back to the boat ramp.. its now 4pm. the afternoon light is lightly filled with dust, the shadows long, the heat and dry of the day has gone along with the headwind, no wind at all, just a gentle warm air. The only downside, when you leave the boat you remember have been tied up to 4 such boats, like cattle along the road, you have been mustered, by the local 'ringer' or guild, down the boat ramp, removed of your $25 and transported along the river with your fellow 125 heads.

I enjoyed the trip.

I enjoyed the ride back to town better. this was one of the best rides I've ever done at 4.30pm. The air at this time of the day is thin, no resistance, the sun low on the horizon, long rays of light stream through the dusty air, paused and disbursed by the boabs and gums. As 3 riders we rolled along, taking our time to enjoy the afternoon, stopping to take photos and just being in outback Fitzroy Crossing.

We arrived back in town around 6pm and camp not much later. Its time for dinner, beer and packing. We have all decided to catch a bus. Steve is taking Greyhound to Broome at 2.10am and Briget, Uwe and I catching the Greyhound to Warmun (Turkey Creek) at 1.40am. Our plan goes well. WE all wake up at midnight ish, pack and walk out to highway to wait for bus. We wait, its cold, very cold, the bus is late, very late. Its around 2.45am before our bus arrives. The driver says "your not planning on taking those with you?" We wait, he thinks, he opens the bus underbelly, he mutters, he gets out his mobile, he calls and says "there are bike and man what do I charge them, where do I put them and you should see them! one looks like a spaceship" I'm guessing that he is referring to my bike. its soon decided that the bikes will cost $60 each to transport and will go into the trailer. By 3am we are all loaded and on the bus heading east. Steve sms me at 3.10am to ask if we have passed his bus... answer is yes.

Bouncing and boggy ride to Fitzroy Crossing

I can't remember but for some reason we decided to get up very early today (1st July Tuesday) Uwe alarm sounded at 4.50am. It was dark when I got out of my tent, but watching darwn arrive was something one can never forget... the stars slowly fading as the horizon lightens from dark black, dark blue, light blue, pink, red yellow sun. At the same time the air changes from cold (4-degrees) to 10, then 20 and finally 20 degrees by noon.

Today after 5kms we found the 1st creek crossing. We stopped and had a bath in what was clear water that soon became very muddy. Riding in the morning wet and cool was wonderful. WE soon became dry and dusty. AT times we had to puch the bikes through the deep sand... not very long bits, but still ard work. Its easier to walk the bike than try to ride... the stop starting is more tiring than just walking the 100metres or so.

We arrived at our second water crossing when a white 4x4 from Fitzroy stopped and out jumped Steve! What a surprise. Better still he came with fresh food. He had managed to convince the local dective to drive him out to meet us. WE all had a cuppa and eat food. Great memory. They told us the road got better, then very good and then the last 10kms is bad. They also told us about a water hole we could swim in aobut 28kms down the road.

We headed out, refreshed from our cuppa to tackle the road. We made it across the water crossing it was deep!. The next best part of the road was what the locals call a savana! What hoot - fast, fast riding, on flat no lumps road! I was having a ball for about 10kms.. the afternoon sun behind us and for a change no wind! Then we arrived in small rolling hills where the road was again rough, corrogations and a little sandy. Again a car stopped and gave us cool water.

We kepted going, keen to get to the waterhole. WE road through rolling hills on a windy road, it was loverly, with boabs lining the road. the last 10kms was hard, we were tired, but soon the turn-off to the old Oscar Hills Mine was there and we road in. A couple of campers told us were the water hole was and also were to see some rock art the next day. WE all parked our bikes, stripped off and walked into the cold, waist deep water. Was a treat. We set up camp above the water hole and lit a wonderful fire. A couple of America campers joined us and gave us each and ice cold beer :)

Great day 50kms all on dirt

2nd July Wednesday
Again we got up early in search of the rock art. We found the cave and enjoyed the view from the high rock outcrop. We only had 10kms to ride, but it was hard, sand stopping us every few 100metres and having to walk the bikes. WE came upon a heli-muster which was exciting. Then a guy in ute offered to drive us to the main road, but we only had 5kms to go and wanted to finish the road.

Getting to the main sealed Fitzroy Crossing road was such a treat! WE had a cuppa, food and tipped our extra water over ourselves. We pumped up the tires and sms Steve we were 43kms out of town. The ride in was hard, hot and into a very strong headwind. WE road in single file, me first, followed by the mountain bikes. At a low point, when I was feeling sorry for myself a 4x4 with government plates stopped and offered us water. It was drien by Trevor from WAHPV! What a hoot! Trevor was working on a research project at Fossil Downs Station and had recogonised my bike. It was great to chat. Briget and Uwe now thinking Australian is really a small place... Trevor gave us more water and help improve my mood to keep riding into the head wind.

Then just as we ere riding up the only hill in days! Stu stopped and gave us cold water... We then rolled into Fitzroy Crossing and kept going, across the 1st bridge on the bike path :) then the 2nd bridge again on a bike path and rolled into the Crossing Inn with Steve waiting for us on the steps. Bundaburg Ginger Beer and hot chips for all!

Steve had a great camping spot under the shade of a few trees. It was Steve's birthday so we had a wonderful dinner

Gibb River & Windjana Road

Saturday 28th June Best Ride day for almost any bike trip I have ever done! We left early 7.30am and by mid-morning had ridden 40kms, by luch 65kms and by camp 85kms. We have done about 20kms on dirt. Its good dirt, we are all slow on hte diret, me a little slower on account of the skinny front tyre. I need to change the wheel rm from 16 1 3/8 to the larger 16" so I can fit a fat tyre.


The road (sealed and dirt) was flat or downhill rolling with Boabs, Wattle busting full of yellow flower, hanging from green dusty limbs,blossum shaded by broad pale green leves and glimpes of a red Grivilla called Wickpin (I think). Its the light of the Kimberley that makes this place so special. Its there in the early morning and returns in the arvo a hue of dust hangs in the air that is so sharp you think the air is clear and long shadows fall against the red rock, sand and spear grass. At times, hidden in the spear grass you come upon a Braham (Bull) standing in the shade of gum, with their distintive, floppy ears and lump behind their head.. Sometimes our bikes scare the 'mob' and they race in front of the bikes, across our path churing up dust and stone.

On this day we camped early at 3pm, napped, rested and drank tea. That night, from the limited light of the new moon, I was able to show Uwe & Briget 'old man emu' in the sky. We also have discovered we misculated how much food we needed by one day... Its going to be thin pickings as we roll in to Fitzroy!

29th June Sunday 70kms all on dirt. The last 20kms the worse I've ever done, was into Windjana Gorge. We had a few surprises today. The first was the sign saying there was a shop at the turn-off to Windjana. We stopped for cold drink or two and a Aussie pie & sause. The second surprise was the cold showers at Windjana! Wonderful, almost better than the the Gorge (just kidding). As we set up camp we ran into Billy again - who again supplied Uwe with two bottles of soda water! The ranger told us the road is worse heading south - sand and corrorgations! Wonderful!

30th June Monday
We left at 7.30am and was sent on our way to Tunnel Creek by a few campers taking photos. And yes the road was hard... or more to the point sand and corrogations. The sand was tricky for all of us, but mostly me again due to the skinny front wheel. We had wonderful support from many of the car drivers, including a car stopping to give us 3 bottles of 600mls of ice cold water. It was only 36kms to Tunnel Creek and it took most of the morning. We arrived before the tour busses :) and we had a wonderful cool and wet (by choice) walk through the creek. The best part was arriving athte end and everyone, about 6 people just sitting, not talking watching the butterfly's, light and feeling the cool air on our skin for about 30 minutes. very nice. We walked back and had our picnic lunch by the shade of a bus... limited trees. We ran into Stu again, who told us the road gets better south and also a good place for water and to camp.

We hit the dusty road again at 2.30pm after re-filling with cold water from a tour bus (told tell APT but we 'stole' it with the help of one of their passengers). This day we managed to ride a total of 55kms and I think had one of the best camp spots. In fading afternoon light the hills & rocks come alive with red & brown colour, with the white bark gums rising above the spinerfix and spear grass plane and the sky is a mix of pink, blue and red. New moon stunning against the dark blue night sky. No camp fire tonight, no need, watching the stars was just to special.

Demanding Derby

We started our bike tour by taking an all day tour in 4x4 to Cape Leveque. Worth every cent. Stu our tour guide was good value and came in handy over the next few days during the bike ride.

After and extra day in Broome and a minor panic that Steve wouldn't beable to join the ride on the account of his air susspension unit failing. This was fixed and we were all ready for an early morning depart Wednesday 23rd june. For the 1st two days of the ride each rider would need to carry 7-litre's of water/day. This was because I didn't know how much water everyone was going to drink or what would be needed for dinner (cooking). This meant my bike had 14-litres of water, along with tent (3kg), sleeping bag, mat, clothes, electrical stuff, tools (1kg) and yes the laptop & spare battery...

It was a long slow ride, but we were all in good spirits. Jill & Denice were heading to Derby in the 4x4 that same day and had arranged to take extra food for us to town. We were to collect if from a government office in town.

We managed to ride 85kms this 1st day and camped at a place called Taylors lagoon.. Not so nice due to the cattle using it as a watering hole. I enjoyed the light, cooking dinner on our camp fire and being in my tent for he 1st time in many months.

The next day started well, but at lunch time Uwe was sick (vomited), I think from the coffee and Steve was experiencing knee pain. Briget and I were fine. We road on and on and on to Willare around 83kms against a very strong and warm head wind. Uwe hadn't eaten all day and was not at all well. We camped on the banks of Fitzroy River. Here we met Billy & her husband. They were wonderful, Billy is a nurse from Esperence and she arranged for us all to have a shower and gave Uwe boiled water to drink.

Next day we road the 3kms to the roadhouse for breaky, Uwe still not able to eat. We continued on to Derby. At the turn-off for Fitzroy Crossing, Steve said he couldn't ride any further, his knee was very sore, so he decided to hitch to Fitzroy Crossing and we were to continue on to Derby, Gibb River Rd, Windjana, Tunnel Creek and re meet up at Fitzroy in 3-4 days.

Uwe, Briget & I made it to Derby by 2.30pm and took Uwe to the hospitable for medication to settle his tummy. It cost $140! ouch. Steve called to say he had managed to get a lift to Fitzroy by the Derby coppa. We ran into Stu again, picked up our extra food from Jill friends and set up camp at what was to be the noiseist camping ground ever! Cup day in Derby and a rock band playing until 3am - badly

It was great to have a shower, cook dinner in a camp kitchen and relax in the arvo. Uwe and Briget did the food shopping for the next stage of our trip. This was going to be the hard bit... dirt riding along the Gibb River road